Mexico DF, December 17

Arriving by night

Flying over Mexico City was spectacular. From a distance of 20-30 minutes, smears of light could be seen here and there in the darkness. The the smears gained definition revealing themselves as collections of lights, with the largest galaxy Mexico DF. Like looking at the Milky Way from a distance and zooming in to see star clusters, stars, solar systems at the very end. Mexico City-- the closer we got, the more endless it became, with really no horizon, origin or end. It was like a great plate of jewels and coins spread in the darkness, with chains of golden lights strewn throughout marking the highways.In some places, black clouds blotted out the lights, and then they would reappear.

The night watcher

           From the ground, though, the sky was a big-city neverdark mauve, that color that sometimes seems its opposite, a murky orange. Once out of the airport, in the cab, it looked shabby and grubby, with endless two story, some three story stuccoed buildings. Many were first floor businesses, and living space on top. Signs were commonly painted right on the wall, rather than lighted signs. There were business signs but also cigarette and beer ads in fading, peeling paint on the walls.  Trees struggled for a living, pushing up from tiny plots of soil along the streets.It was sulfurous. The driver could not find the street despite my map and multiple phone calls. But Paco, the host, kindly came and got me, and took me back to his lovely home. It was an old structure, rebuilt inside: airy and open. The house was on an alley occupied by various extended family: it was totally enclosed by walls, including a solid steel gate with three locks. But once it, it is a haven. Doors are not closed, nor are windows. There are small front and rear gardens, tile floors, a lovely mix of modern and antique reflecting the owners. It is a relaxing haven.
I will take care to remember where this place is and nearby landmarks, so as not to get lost myself. Outside the alley is a quiet boulevard with convenience shops, and a block away, a large thoroughfare with businesses, restaurants, and a 24 hour grocery with ATMs. There's a subway station 10 minutes away. So-- here all ok, except for the phone left charging at home in Charlottesville.The place has two very large but unusually sedate dogs. Someone else's music is drifting in. It is cool bu fine. I will plan tomorrow, tomorrow.