A Slave to the Moon Guide

I have become too reliant on my Moon Guide, because it is something I can master. I can decide to go to this park or that famous site because it feels obligatory, and because I can't really ask and it is too huge and too hot to just wander at random.  But in Beijing, many of the sites are variations on a theme. Maybe it would be better if I joined some tour groups, but I am resistant. Well, perhaps I am not collecting as many questionable facts, but if I look for places on my own, the proportion of wandering around, possibly lost, leads to interesting experiences. How lost can you really get? Even if you don't know where you are, you are still certainly somewhere.  I get to walk around neighborhoods on the way, as a collateral benefit. Mostly they look a bit worn, even if they are not very old. There is a surprising number of trees; and of course I seek out parks. The big-city parks here are wonderful.

Today I went to a permanent flea market called Panjiayuan in the morning and found they had (this is China) hundreds of booths selling small jade carvings, beads, etc. There were lovely caterpillars on leaves, and a white cicada perched on a brown peanut; the stone's color was stratified and the carver used that in planning his work. These were out of my range! Elsewhere, there were many stalls selling the same tourist pseudoartifacts, and also some lovely ceramics-- small vessels of graceful shapes; gourd-shapes, ovals; and ceramic chips. I did get a pair of matching 'jade' beads to make earrings with; I can add those tiny fluorite beads I already have. And I saw something unique of uncertain provenance-- a chunky necklace of veiny blue oblate beads with 3 different beads inserted, bought it, and slipped it on. Outside, there were various interesting but large objects like birdcages, pretty boxes with inlaid glazed ceramic chips as the tops, and wooden molds like butter molds or the speculaas molds, two per paddle of fish and butterflies.

Through two huge gates, the Temple of Heaven

  Later, I headed for the Temple of Heaven where the Emperor made ritual sacrifices for good harvests and the like four times a year. Big pomp. It is certainly grand, grand, grand, with fabulous, intricate paintings on the ceiling, several separate buildings with regal walkways between, enormous red gates with tantalizing views through the gateways. The use of this space involved many rigid rules and rituals. Commoners were not allowed to even peek at the procession as it wound from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven on pain of death, and now we stroll along with our Popsicles. Even though there was music played through inconspicuous speakers to set the tone, as a historical/cultural site it didn't come alive for me, as an equivalent western site might. Understanding culture is not just intellectual. Chinese Buddhism seems very different from what I think of: Buddhism as a spiritual practice and way of thinking about the world, really almost secular. This is full of vast treasure accumulation and sacrifices, all about property and power. But of course, Christian religions also do this in various versions. 

Opera practice

This was not nearly as crowded as the Forbidden City, but still full of tour groups and picture takers-- but also a laid-back park scene in the non-temple parts. A huge park! The gods were presented with a view of jade-- the green surroundings of the temple.  There were opera singers practicing in a pavilion, just as the guide book said, using music notation that was completely unfamiliar, many picnickers, handy snack stands. I sat on a bench and snoozed with some other old ladies, who were also crocheting something lacy and knitting a big black sweater.

  A girl guard at the temple itself noticed my newly acquired necklace and asked me it, including the price. She wrote the Chinese name in my book-- which I think just translates to blue stone--lu song shi-- (turquoise?). She said it was from Tibet and then another man chimed in saying it was a prayer necklace. I took it off for the rest of the time there. Wonder what they were so interested  in? Am I unwittingly participating in some kind of cultural sacking? I can't think so.

This place is huge, full of paths and glades of various trees, walled spaces, big enough to get lost in. It is easy to get to a place where there is no one else.