Cruisin' in Souzhou

It is so much better when you can actually strike up conversations in places you travel to. I took a pedicab to the jetty where the canal cruise leaves from, and it was so hot and the guy could barely do it-- couldn't read Mandarin or a map  either, it developed. So it took a long time and cost in the end three times what a cab would. Good or bad? The cruise was mostly on a wide stretch of river featuring midrange hotels overlooking; but the band of trees along the riverbank-- the Chinese cities have this thing about lights. Willow trees were uplit mostly with green but also some other colors, which made one expect to see fairies flitting among them at any second. Other groups of trees had dripping lights-- tubes that started at the top and grew light downwardly. And the rooflines of everything were outlined in lights. This is not even considering the normal lighting accorded commercial establishments, signage, etc. Many pretend pagodas at the riverbank for people to stop and sit. But overall a somewhat grubby city. And not all the girls are animated, cute princesses or suave sophisticates like in Shanghai.

I was sitting next to two old ladies-- they have seen many changes in their lives, from early times with Mao, to the Cultural Revolution and now this rampant capitalism and materialism, er, socialism with Chinese characteristics. socialism-- not sure what the safety net situation is around here, but I don't see many beggars or homeless, although I am mostly in the on-show parts of the cities, so can't make a blanket statement. I don't see many children or adults with obvious handicaps either.

Grilled snacks

During the boat ride, a man in a long tunic played a three stringed instrument and sang. Sing a line, comment with instrument, repeat. Like the blues, the instrument acted as the chorus. There was a slightly overdressed young woman explaining what we were seeing on the shore, in Mandarin with Souzhou characteristics. 

Got back to the hostel after a collaboration with the cab driver to figure out where I wanted to go, and walked along the street to look for food.  There was a guy with a grill and skewers of things, but not enough turnover for me to buy meat in this weather; and next to him, a guy with a gasfired wok stand and mien, wide noodles, fan, vermicelli, and a bunch of veg. This time I could absolutely not make myself understood, but eventually walked away with spicy kitchen sink noodles. I think he overcharged, but I am at peace with this since everything is so cheap anyway. But he burst out in a laugh/cheer with his buddies as I walked away. But I won't be here again so don't have to deal with the consequences of my foolishness.

Tomorrow, on to Beijing.