Templo Mayor

array of skulls carved in stone; colonial buildings in background

The Templo Mayor is an extensive ruin, seven or more layers deep, of temples right on the Zocalo. It was active at the time the Spaniards arrived: they destroyed it, built the Catedral Metropolitano over part of it, and two Spanish brothers' mansion over the part that is now excavated. They only discovered it recently, and accidentally, as these things happen, when workers installing sewer pipes ran into it. It was nearly empty on the 28th, when I went.

It is interesting that it shows the layers of the successive temples since it was sliced open. But it is hard to understand the organization and get the big picture of what was going on. There were slanting floors with stone benches; the supports under the seats had elaborate friezes but they were too degraded, or I was, to make sense of them. They had, according to the explanatory plaques, dancing warriors brandishing bloody awls used for autosacrifice (of blood, not the life). The whole administrative and religious operation lacks appeal, though I only understand the edges. The esthetic is brutal. But I don't really get a feel for everyday life. Was it only farming, eating tortillas, and paying tribute? What was the whole society like, and the economy? I was surprised that the Templo Mayor was first developed shortly before the conquistadors arrived. How was the religion tied into government and how did it incorporate previous ones that the peoples who built the Templo Mayor? But I have to say, what I know already does not make me want to know more.There is an attached museum, also deserted, that had many artifacts dug up during the (ongoing) excavation of the Templo. It seemed strange that when there were so many people crowding the Zocalo, less than a block away, this site and museum was nearly deserted.

Under the old gum tree

Afterwards,  I went back to Condesa to join J and Q to look for lunch-- the barracoa place was closed so we found a relatively fancy taco place (seats!) and got too much food-- very nice green mole tacos, boring mushroom tacos, a sort of shredded, tomato, italiany actually torta that had the overall effect of a fish sloppy joe, and a parilla with steak, chicken with a rub, nopale, grilled onion, chorizo, and lots of that fried pork rind. Whew. Then I headed back to Paco's after a lukewarm leavetaking. I was pretty drained and basically snoozed the rest of the day. I couldn't even write. Or draw. I was feeling peculiar for a few days. Travel is hard.